Vietnam: Hanoi to Saìgon, and the Hà Giang Loop Decision

Vietnam stretches over 1,650 kilometres from the karst limestone of Hà Giang in the far north to the Mekong Delta in the south, and a two-week traveller can cover most of it on the north-to-south spine. The 90-day e-visa introduced in August 2023 has changed who comes and how long they stay. This guide covers the standard Hanoi → Sapa or Hà Giang → Hội An → Ho Chi Minh City route, the Hà Giang motorbike loop, transport logistics across the spine, and what 14 days actually costs.

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The 90-day e-visa changes everything

In August 2023, Vietnam extended its e-visa from 30 days single-entry to 90 days multiple-entry for 80+ nationalities. This was the largest visa policy change in Vietnam in two decades and reshaped what counts as a “Vietnam trip.”

The mechanics: apply at the official portal (evisa.xuatnhapcanh.gov.vn), upload a passport scan and recent photograph, pay USD 25, and receive approval in 3 business days. Print the approval letter and bring it to immigration on arrival. The visa is valid from the entry date you specify, so apply 1–2 weeks before travel.

The practical implication: 2-week trips are now the floor, not the ceiling. Many independent travellers are doing 6–8 week Vietnam trips that weren’t possible under the old visa regime.

North-to-south or south-to-north?

Vietnam’s geography means each region has a different optimal season, and that creates the direction question.

• North (Hanoi, Sapa, Hà Giang, Hạ Long Bay): Best October–December (cool and dry). Cold and misty January–March. Hot and rainy June–August.
• Centre (Hội An, Hue, Da Nang): Best February–April. Wet and stormy October–December (the only time avoid).
• South (Ho Chi Minh City, Mekong Delta): Best December–April (dry season). Wet but warm May–November.

The classic compromise October–November north-to-south trip hits the north in its prime, the centre as the wet season tapers, and the south at the start of dry season. The reverse trip (south to north in March) also works but loses the central-coast prime weather.

Hanoi: 2 days, then north or sleep?

Hanoi is denser, older, and more atmospheric than Ho Chi Minh City — the Old Quarter alone justifies two days. The classic stops:

• Old Quarter — 36 streets, each historically named for its trade. Walkable, chaotic, the heart of the city. Stay here.
• Hoan Kiem Lake at sunrise — locals doing tai chi and morning exercise. The Ngoc Son Temple on the island.
• Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum complex — open mornings only, free, requires hour-long queue if you go.
• Train Street — the narrow alley where the daily train passes inches from cafes. Cafe-access has been restricted since 2019 but some still operate; Café Ngõ 224 Le Duan and similar venues let you sit during the 3:30pm and 7pm train passages.
• Bun cha at Bun Cha Huong Lien (the Obama spot) — tourist-coded but genuinely good. Better local versions exist at Bun Cha Dac Kim.

From Hanoi, the next decision: night bus to Sapa (8 hours, rice-terrace hiking), Hà Giang loop (motorbike circuit, 3–4 days), or Hạ Long Bay cruise (the iconic one-night-on-water trip).

The Hà Giang loop

The Hà Giang loop is a 350-km motorbike circuit through Vietnam’s far north — karst peaks, ethnic-minority villages, switchbacks above the China border. In 2018 it was an off-grid adventure. By 2026 it is firmly mainstream, with dozens of guide companies, dedicated hostels, and a tourism economy that didn’t exist five years ago. It is still extraordinary scenery; the question is how to do it.

Options

• Self-ride (semi-automatic motorbike): 3–4 days, motorbike rental USD 8–15/day, full freedom. Requires international motorbike licence (Vietnam now enforces this; uninsured accidents are common). Recommended only if you have prior experience on similar bikes.
• “Easy rider” (passenger on a guide’s bike): The most popular option. You ride pillion behind an experienced local guide. 3-day package: USD 180–260 including bike, fuel, guide, accommodation, most meals.
• Jeep tour: 3-day, 4WD, group of 4–6. USD 250–350. The “I want to see the loop but I don’t want to be on a bike” option.

Itinerary

Day 1: Hà Giang → Yen Minh → Dong Van. The high Quan Ba pass, Twin Mountains. Day 2: Dong Van → Meo Vac via the Ma Pi Leng Pass — the loop’s spectacular leg. Sunday market at Dong Van if timed right. Day 3: Meo Vac → Du Gia → back to Hà Giang. Optional fourth day to extend at Du Gia.

Starting point: night bus from Hanoi to Hà Giang city (8 hours, USD 12–18 sleeper bus). Most loop tours leave Hà Giang at 8–9am.

Hội An: where the trip slows

Hội An is the central-coast UNESCO town where most 2-week itineraries spend their longest single stay. The old quarter has lanterns, tailored clothing, and a 16th-century riverside that becomes a tourist-saturated photograph after dark. The town is also one of Vietnam’s culinary capitals — cao lầu noodles, white rose dumplings, banh mi at the famous Banh Mi Phuong.

The Packzup Hội An guide covers the town in detail (see Hoi An Travel Guide). For the Vietnam-spine traveller, the right Hội An stay is 3 nights — one day for the old quarter, one day for the An Bang beach + cycle ride, one buffer/tailoring day.

Getting there from Hanoi: flight to Da Nang is the standard move (90 minutes, USD 30–60 on VietJet), then 30-minute taxi to Hội An. The 14-hour overnight train is the romantic option but eats a day.

Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong day trip

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon to locals) is denser, hotter, and more chaotic than Hanoi — 9 million people, near-equatorial humidity, motorbike traffic that takes 24 hours to adjust to.

Essential stops:

• War Remnants Museum: Confronting, essential, the most important historical site in southern Vietnam. Allow 3 hours. USD 1.50 entry.
• Cu Chi Tunnels: 1.5-hour drive from HCMC. The Viet Cong tunnel network from the war. Tourist-heavy but historically significant. Day-trip USD 12–20 group tours, or USD 60+ private.
• Banh Xeo 46A — the classic banh xeo (crispy rice pancake) restaurant. Cheap, busy, authentic.
• Ben Thanh Market — touristy but useful for first-time-in-Vietnam shopping.

Mekong day-trip

The Mekong Delta is huge and varied. The standard My Tho or Ben Tre day-trip from HCMC (USD 15–30 group tour) is mostly a packaged tourist experience — coconut candy factories and rowboat photo-ops. The richer experience is a 2-day overnight in Can Tho, including the early-morning Cai Rang floating market.

Transport: trains, sleeper buses, or flights?

Vietnam offers three viable inter-city options, each with trade-offs.

Domestic flights

VietJet, Vietnam Airlines, Bamboo Airways. The fastest option. Hanoi–Da Nang or Hanoi–HCMC: 90–120 minutes, USD 30–60 if booked 1+ week ahead. The right choice for the Hanoi-to-Da Nang leg on most itineraries.

The Reunification Express train

The 1,726-km train line from Hanoi to HCMC. Sleeper cabins available. The full trip takes 30+ hours; segment trips are more practical (Hanoi–Hue: 12 hours, Hue–Da Nang: 3 hours, the spectacular Hai Van Pass leg). USD 35–80 per sleeper berth depending on class.

Sleeper buses

The budget overnight option. Bunk-style sleeping berths, surprisingly comfortable. Hanoi–Sapa, Hanoi–Hà Giang, and various short-haul routes work well by sleeper bus. USD 12–25 per overnight. Avoid for routes over 12 hours — the discomfort exceeds the savings.

The right transport stack for 2 weeks

• Hanoi → Sapa or Hà Giang: sleeper bus
• Hanoi → Da Nang/Hội An: flight
• Hội An → HCMC: flight (or train if you want the Hai Van Pass)

Two-week itinerary that actually works

One shape:

• Days 1–3: Hanoi. Old Quarter, day trip to Ninh Binh (the “inland Hạ Long Bay”) or Hạ Long Bay overnight cruise.
• Days 4–6 or 4–7: Hà Giang loop (3-day easy rider) OR Sapa (2-day rice-terrace base).
• Day 8: Fly Hanoi to Da Nang, transfer to Hội An.
• Days 9–11: Hội An. Old quarter, An Bang beach, optional My Son ruins day.
• Day 12: Fly Hội An (Da Nang airport) to HCMC.
• Days 13–14: HCMC + Cu Chi or Mekong day-trip, fly out.

The Hue / Phong Nha decision: if you have 16+ days, add Hue (the imperial city) and Phong Nha (the cave national park, increasingly popular) between the Hội An and HCMC legs.

What 2 weeks really costs

For two travellers, mid-range, in 2026:

• Accommodation: USD 30–60/night for 3-star hotels. Cheaper at hostels (USD 12–25/dorm bed).
• Food: USD 8–15/day per person for local eating. USD 25–40/day for mid-range restaurant meals.
• Transport (flights + buses): USD 250–400/person for the full spine.
• Activities (Hà Giang loop, Mekong, museums): USD 200–400.
• Visa: USD 25 per person.

Total per person, 14 days: USD 800–1,500 excluding international flights. Vietnam remains one of Asia’s better-value destinations.

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Frequently asked

Is the 90-day Vietnam e-visa real?

Yes — the 90-day multiple-entry e-visa became available in August 2023 for 80+ nationalities including US, UK, EU, Australia, Canada, and most of Asia. Apply at the official portal evisa.xuatnhapcanh.gov.vn, pay USD 25, receive approval in 3 business days. Print the approval letter for immigration.

How many days do you need in Vietnam?

14 days for the north-to-south spine (Hanoi + central coast + HCMC) without rushing. 10 days if you skip either the north (Sapa/Hà Giang) or one of Hue/Phong Nha. The 90-day visa has made 3–6 week trips realistic for travellers with time.

Is the Ha Giang loop worth doing in 2026?

Yes, despite the dramatic tourism growth since 2019. The scenery remains extraordinary and the easy-rider option (riding pillion with a local guide) means you don’t need motorbike skills. Expect more travellers than five years ago but still far less crowded than mainstream destinations.

Can you do Vietnam without a motorbike license?

Yes — all major destinations are reachable by flight, train, and sleeper bus. The Hà Giang loop’s easy-rider option puts you on the back of a guide’s bike. Self-driving motorbikes legally requires a Vietnam-recognised international permit; uninsured accidents involving foreign drivers are common.

What is the cheapest month to visit Vietnam?

May or September. These shoulder months mean hotel prices 25–40% below the October–April peak, with weather that’s still acceptable in most regions (the central coast is the exception — avoid October–December for typhoons).

How much does 2 weeks in Vietnam cost?

Mid-range, per person: USD 800–1,500 for 14 days excluding international flights. This covers comfortable 3-star hotels, two domestic flights, the Hà Giang loop tour, meals at a mix of local and mid-range restaurants, and all major attractions.