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Mosaic compass rose set into the pavement at Belem in Lisbon, Portugal

Lisbon in December: Mild, Lit Up, and the Best Christmas Baking in Europe

Reviewed September 2026

6 min read·Updated Sep 2026

December keeps Lisbon at about 16°C – warmer by day than most of Europe manages in spring – with 110 mm of rain and two national holidays in the first ten days. The Christmas lights run the length of the Avenida and the Baixa, and the food is the best argument of all.

The weather, precisely

Lisbon in December: the numbersIn December Lisbon averages about 16 degrees Celsius by day and 10 degrees at night, with about 110 millimetres of rain. The Atlantic sits at about 16 degrees Celsius, cold all year because this is the ocean and not the Mediterranean.Lisbon in December: the numbersAverage daytime high, overnight low and Atlantic sea temperatureAverage daytime high16 °CAverage overnight low10 °CAtlantic sea temperature16 °C
Lisbon in December: about 16 °C by day, 10 °C at night and 110 mm of rain. The Atlantic only ranges from 15 to 19 °C across the whole year.

Wet and mild rather than cold. December is the second-wettest month after November, arriving in Atlantic fronts with bright spells between. At 16°C by day and 10°C at night it is one of the mildest winter capitals in Europe, and on a clear December afternoon a miradouro terrace is genuinely pleasant.

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The cobble warning stands, and matters most now: wet calçada on a steep lane is slippery, and December is a wet month.

Two holidays in ten days

  • Wednesday 1 December – Restauração da Independência, marking the 1640 restoration of Portuguese independence from Spanish rule. A national public holiday; banks and offices closed.
  • Wednesday 8 December – Imaculada Conceição, also a national public holiday.

Both fall midweek in 2027, so expect patchy closures rather than long weekends. Museums and restaurants largely stay open; shops vary.

Christmas in Lisbon

The city dresses properly for it. The Christmas lights – switched on in late November – run along the Avenida da Liberdade, through the Baixa and Chiado, and across Praça do Comércio, which usually carries the main tree and installation. Walking the Baixa grid after dark in December is free and is the single best thing about the month.

The practical points:

  • Christmas Eve, Friday 24 December, is the main event. The Consoada is eaten late on the 24th – traditionally bacalhau cozido, boiled salt cod with potatoes, cabbage and olive oil, not a roast. Restaurants close early or entirely that evening; if you are in Lisbon, arrange food in advance.
  • Saturday 25 December – a national public holiday. Most things closed; hotel restaurants serve.
  • 26 December is not a public holiday in Portugal – unlike Britain, there is no Boxing Day, and normal life resumes.
A classic yellow tram climbing a steep street in Lisbon, Portugal
December in Lisbon is mild enough that the trams and the hills still work – between the Atlantic fronts.

The Christmas table

Portuguese Christmas baking is the real reason to be here in December, and it is all over the pastelarias from late November:

  • Bolo Rei – the crown-shaped candied-fruit and nut cake, eaten from early December to Epiphany. Bolo Rainha is the same thing without the candied fruit, for those who object to it.
  • Rabanadas – the Portuguese take on French toast, soaked, fried and dusted with cinnamon and sugar. Christmas only.
  • Sonhos and filhoses – fried dough, pumpkin or plain.
  • Roast chestnuts, still on every corner from São Martinho onwards.

New Year’s Eve

Lisbon sees in the year at Praça do Comércio, with a free open-air concert and fireworks over the Tagus at midnight. It is free, it is busy, and the square empties slowly afterwards – the metro runs extended hours. Restaurants sell fixed New Year menus booked well in advance. 1 January is a public holiday and the city is very quiet until afternoon.

Prices and crowds

Low season for the first three weeks – cheap, quiet, with the lights already up, which makes early-to-mid December one of the best-value windows of the year. Rates then climb for Christmas and New Year. See what a trip to Portugal costs.

What to pack

A waterproof and shoes with grip. Layers, and something warm for interiors – Portuguese buildings are poorly insulated and central heating is not a given, so a December apartment can feel colder inside than out. An umbrella works here.

The December 2027 calendar

  • Late November onwards – Christmas lights along the Avenida da Liberdade, the Baixa, Chiado and Praça do Comércio.
  • Wednesday 1 December – Restoration of Independence, a national public holiday.
  • Wednesday 8 December – Immaculate Conception, a national public holiday.
  • First three weeks – low-season prices with the lights already up; the best value of the month.
  • Friday 24 DecemberConsoada; the main Christmas meal is eaten late, and restaurants close early or entirely.
  • Saturday 25 December – Christmas Day, a national public holiday. 26 December is not – Portugal has no Boxing Day.
  • Friday 31 December – free concert and fireworks over the Tagus at Praça do Comércio; extended metro.
  • Saturday 1 January 2028 – New Year’s Day, a public holiday.

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Frequently asked

How cold is Lisbon in December?

About 16°C by day and 10°C at night – mild by European standards. The issues are rain, at about 110 mm, and interiors that often have no central heating.

What do Portuguese eat at Christmas?

The Consoada on the night of 24 December, traditionally bacalhau cozido – boiled salt cod with potatoes, cabbage and olive oil – rather than a roast. Followed by Bolo Rei, rabanadas, sonhos and filhoses.

Is 26 December a holiday in Portugal?

No. Portugal has no Boxing Day, and normal life resumes on the 26th. Christmas Day itself is a national public holiday.

Are there public holidays in early December?

Two – Restoration of Independence on 1 December and the Immaculate Conception on the 8th. Both fall midweek in 2027, so expect patchy closures rather than long weekends.

What happens on New Year’s Eve in Lisbon?

A free open-air concert and fireworks over the Tagus at Praça do Comércio, with extended metro hours. Restaurants sell fixed menus booked well in advance.

When is the cheapest time to visit Lisbon in December?

The first three weeks, when rates are still low season and the Christmas lights are already up. Prices climb for Christmas and New Year.

What is Bolo Rei?

The crown-shaped Portuguese Christmas cake with candied fruit and nuts, sold from late November to Epiphany on 6 January. Bolo Rainha is the same cake without the candied fruit.

Does it rain a lot in Lisbon in December?

About 110 mm, second only to November. It arrives in Atlantic fronts with bright spells between, rather than as constant grey.